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«Playing Dress-up»

60
Finalist of the competition

Over the past few years, a unique trend has emerged in China: millions of people travel to ancient cities to take pictures in traditional Chinese costumes. Over the course of 8 months, I documented the tourists of Beijing and Luoyang, exploring themes of consumer culture, the romanticization of history, and the influence of social media in shaping modern perceptions of tradition in China.

Since the lifting of COVID restrictions, a growing number of Chinese tourists visit cities that were once ancient capitals of China such as Beijing, Luoyang, Xi’an and Nanjing, and go to special stores to rent traditional Chinese costumes for the day and ‘daka’ (打卡), a Chinese social media neologism meaning ‘to check in’ to a tourist destination by posting photos online. Depending on the dynasty, they choose from an array of costumes, all called by a general name «Hanfu» (Han peoples' clothing). These kinds of clothes were only worn by people of power and nobility, but nowadays, anyone can become an emperor or empress for the day: rent a costume that comes with a make-over, and often a photographer too, for as low a price as 80 RMB (11 USD).

I shot this project in the period of August 2024-March 2025, documenting the costume tourism trend in Beijing and Luoyang. I try to show a different side of this social behaviour, not posted on social media, and explore the surrealism of modern-day tourism in mainland China, the obsessiveness over ‘the perfect shot’ for social media and the FOMO that comes with it.

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Girls dressed in Manchu attire sit down to rest in the August heat of the city. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, August 2024

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A group dressed in Manchu attire sits on the floor of the metro. Tourists often spend the entire day in costume to make the most of their money. Beijing metro, August 2024

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A woman changes her shoes on the dirty floor amid crowds of tourists. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, August 2024

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Mother and son wait for a taxi after a long day of taking pictures. Near Beihai Park, Beijing, September 2024

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After a day of photosessions tourists return to a mall, where out of six floors, four are completely occupied by traditional costume stores. Near Wangfujing shopping street, Beijing, November 2024

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Two women in Manchu attire squat on the ground, waiting for their taxi to arrive. Outside Beihai Park, Beijing, September 2024

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A family in the -15 degree cold, not giving up. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, February 2025

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Girls taking selfies. Yingtian Gate, Luoyang, October 2024

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In Luoyang, many stores incorporate modern twists into their makeup and costumes to appeal to customers who have seen similar styles online. Luoyi Ancient City Scenic Area, Luoyang, October 2024

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A woman in a «traditional» cat costume, making fake pipe smoke from her vape. Yingtian Gate, Luoyang, October 2024

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A woman in a Manchu costume holds a bunny prop. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, November 2024

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A girl with a Chinese «sugar painting» in her lap. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, November 2024

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A grandma poses. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, November 2024

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Mother and son pose for a picture in their own styles. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, September 2024

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A photographer working in the costume tourism industry walks with a prop of an oversized version of a Beijing traditional snack. Near the Forbidden City, Beijing, September 2024

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A mannequin with a European face shows off the «ideal look». A shopping mall near Wangfujing shopping street, February 2025

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